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Ismail Elshareefleft a comment
An epic coming-of-age story centered around surfing, its history, its best sports around the world, and its fascinating evolution. For those of us who surf, the author manages to capture the essence of our obsession in an incredibly well-written and insightful prose. What an incredible journey that left me sad, wanting to learn more.

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life William Finnegan's memoir on surfing
